Friday, 4 March 2022

Bithoor to Lucknow - My thoughts and my drive

This is a fairly random post; random because it's a compilation of the many thoughts that went through my mind as I drove from Bithoor to Lucknow. If ten years ago I would have suggested to the family that I will drive from Bithoor to Lucknow, even with a driver with me in the vehicle there would have been an uproar. I had lived, worked and traveled overseas all by myself. I drove past mid night in Mumbai. Even Mumbai to Pune through the ghats was acceptable. But driving through rural UP, as a woman, it was not to be. So the last few years have been a great relief. This is not thanks to a political party but largely to the citizens and the family who have started to see things from a wider lens now. 


While I was driving there was a driver with me who would get the car back. All of 20 years, I learnt as I started a conversation, he stopped studying after the fifth standard as he did not enjoy studies. So he learnt how to drive and now earns a livelihood with that. But he should study is what I tried to reason and he smiled, signalling that my rationalisation was falling on deaf years. So I stopped and I switched on my play list. What amazed me how this youngster was mimicing the tabla on the dashboard. He was enjoying the music and I realised that maybe while there was progress for women, overall we need the education system to progress too. Maybe Chintu would have stayed in school if music was a part of his education? 

As I was mulling over this and watching him enjoy my play list I also noticed how civic sense was absent in those who were driving the private cars. These were the people who were not just speeding but also overtaking from the wrong side. This included me on a couple of occassions as well. It struck me how we, the educated, forget that we have the responsibility to set an example and this hit me hard as one SUV swerved fast and hard to get in front of my vehicle at a toll plaza. It irked me to no end that the driver had made such a dangerous manoeuvre risking his own life and ours too. So I honked hard and Chintu said, "jaane do didi, pagal hai" ("let it go, he is mad"). He was more sensible in that moment than I was and I was humbled. I apologised and drove on. 

As we entered Lucknow and I drove through the city, I witnessed close to twenty or thirty fruit hawkers with stalls side by side. On the road side, as they awaited customers, these hawkers were laughing, playing and having a good time. Not one was trying to shun the other or did I sense any hostility. The traffic was terrible and so I could observe this closely. Wanting to see if my sense was accurate I parked on the side and got off to buy some oranges. As I approached one vendor and negotiated with him, the others kept quiet. Not one pitched in with a lower offer, maybe one said I have better quality but they wanted their neighbour to conclude the sale. I bought a kilo, gave it to Chintu and my mind went to my days as a banker. One of the reasons I quit banking in India was that all compete on price and only that. Unlike the hawkers, we bankers did not differentiate with quality or experience or expertise, but won mandates by undercutting. What if we all held out prices firm but developed our expertise, would the world of banking in India have more depth? 

As I was thinking this I blindly followed my Google maps to meet a friend and customer of my current organization. He was keen to give me feedback and I had some time before my flight. Plus we had last met in 2018 so I guess it made sense to make the stop. I was driving to the location he had shared but should have realised that the narrow road was not the intended route. After a kilometre it struck me what an idiot I had been. So I decided to make a u-turn. Now I was driving a Xylo which is a manual mammoth of an SUV. So it was not the easiest u-turn in that narrow lane that had shops and hawkers on either side. I decided to give it a try anyway and suddenly there was a good Samaritan who emerged to discipline the two wheeler traffic that was adamant on going their way without giving me even thirty seconds. As soon as I had turned he walked away, even before I could say a thank you. This happens only in a few cities in the country, cities where we value human interaction and have empathy. Try thinking of this is in a Delhi or Bangalore and I am sure it's just a fantasy. In Bombay while on a daily basis this may be a sweet dream, when times are tough the citizens can forget all their differences and  rescue strangers at cost of their own material and physical comfort. "Muskuraiye Aap Lucknow mein hain" (Smile, you are in Lucknow) has a new meaning for me. 

A good meeting and some Lucknow delicacies later, I was on my way to the airport. Let us just say that this city is beautiful and a must visit for those who have not been here. I drove slowly to navigate the unruly traffic yes, but also to soak in the city that is so untravelled. Where the past and current governments have created public spaces, invested in upkeep and good infrastructure, those areas beat the best locales of the Indian metros. But where the city has been neglected it's sad to see dilapidated architecture and the chaos that exists. Like most Indian cities the so called metro construction only adds to the mayhem. The only hope is that this election will bring in the older government, only so that the policy continuation happens and there is no more disharmony created. But the truth is that this is reality for most Indian cities and the only exception I can think of is Jaipur. Not only is the historic architecture preserved, the development had been more systematic and the traffic rule observation is stellar. 

Once at the airport, I had to keep my cool to deal with the breaking of the queues and the confusion. But one respite from all this travel related irritation was my customary shopping of the Chikan salwar kurta material at the airport. I have always been very partial to this embroidery that originated during the Mughal rule and own multiple Chikan work salwar kameez and sarees. The shop at the airport in particular has cotton that lasts years and some of their work is fabulous so if I land up liking something I usually buy it. And like all times the two men at the counter were patient and generous as I went through different patterns. Ultimately I bought two pieces and this time I got a ten percent discount; courtesy CoVid they have not had sale and so want to lure customers. 

Hands full, bags checked and with a grateful heart I boarded my flight. Every trip to Bithoor is special and makes me count my blessings but today I am recounting my learnings. Hopefully I will remember to be more forgiving on highways and roads, set the right example whenever I can, work with the aim to grow the pie for all and lastly hold myself and leaders I select accountable. With this thought I am signing off hoping to catch some zzzs on the flight. 

Have a great weekend ahead. 



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