As the ascent to Meghalaya started, so did my fight to keep my
eyes open. I had woken up at 3:00 am, brahmamuhurat as per the ever-graceful
grandfather figure or in my language an unearthly hour, and it was now close to
mid-day. Post landing and beautiful darshans, we were enroute to Cherrapunji
and I wanted to be awake not just for the sights but to be able to sleep early.
My driver saw my struggle and suggested that I nap till we reach a viewing
point where we could also have a cup of tea. That was all that I needed and my
eyes closed shut.
The next thing I know is being asked to wake up as we were
nearing Shillong and the viewing point. My body slowly got into the first gear
but as the views of Bara Pani or lake Umiam came to fore there was a sudden shift
to the fourth gear. I got off the car soaking in the clean, misty, and dreamy
mountain air. Camera forgotten in the car the phone came to life and I was
smiling. This trip had been a good decision.
But so was the thought of having tea, which was nowhere in
sight! The driver I realised had woken me up earlier as this was a clear day
and a not to miss view. The tea point was ahead. Knowing that I was now
nestling in the mountains, all sleep vanished into the floating clouds.
As we continued to Cherrapunji, the driver informed me that I
could synch my phone to the car's audio system and play my music. So came
Abhijeet Pohankar from my airpods on to the car stereo. The combination of the
landscape, the weather and the music was ethereal. A viewing stop and a couple
of waterfalls later we reached our destination, and I was smiling. It had been
a great day and good start to the holiday.
Bright and early the next morning I woke up, ready to trek up
and down 3500 stairs to see the double root bridge. Not on my original
itinerary, I had brought about the change at the last minute. Caves seemed
lame. This trek was the adventure that I sought. As we continued our journey
through the clouds to the trek point, my driver gave me basic inputs on the
history and culture of Meghalaya. It was interesting to note that while from
clothes to food their habits are close to their customs (an admirable fact),
the script of the language has moved to English alphabet. And yet most locals
are more comfortable in Hindi as opposed to English.
Drive to the trek in the morning
At the trek point I craved a cup of tea, which given the morning
hour and the weather was more of an indulgence than a need. My guide (one who
was going to help me get to the bridge and back) insisted that we have it “down”.
I was not sure what “down” meant but I went along. Just as we started our
descent, a young girl called out to me. She requested if she could join me and
as two solo travellers we split the guide cost. The more the merrier and so we
went down the rabbit hole not knowing what lay ahead.
See the white huts, that was our destination
Enthusiasm and excitement took over and we were skipping steps,
literally, even those that were let us say about fifteen inches high. By the
time we reached "down" which was a small settlement, our legs were
shaking or vibrating as Michael Star, our guide, insisted on addressing the
phenomenon. Now I realised why he had insisted on tea "down". This
was the halfway point and a resting spot.
As a vegetarian, travelling globally has taught me to be food
ready. My remedy is to carry methi paranthas for which the flour is kneaded
with milk. This makes them need less oil. As the tea came out so did my
paranthas. My companion, let us call her Akira, initially hesitant also shared
them and we had a breakfast of paranthas dipped in tea. Simple pleasures are
indeed the most heartening.
Climbing down had been fun and filled with Akira and I getting
to know one another. Two things struck me, first the same path had to be climbed
back up and second this was quarter of the way only. I decided to pace myself.
As we crossed the swinging iron bridge I was reciting Hanuman Chalisa. Fun it
indeed was but with a single file of multiple people of different ages, shapes
and sizes, the swing was a bit discomforting. Let me be honest, I was more than
a tad nervous and so came the Chalisa to give me strength. On the other side,
the view was stunning. The gush of the water that reverberated was a white foam
gliding over the rocks. I was now keen to get to the double root bridge and the
waterfall there.
The iron bridge pre crossing
The view below the iron bridge - post the fact
Not spectacular in size, the falls were mesmerising for their
clarity, white foam and easy access. What took me in was the double decker
bridge, made of roots whose strength has survived and strengthened over
centuries. The marvel of nature made my entire being smile and I took of my
shoes so that I could dip my feet in water and sit in the tranquillity of
nature. Of course, there was a crowd of tourists around but imagining the
engineering of mother nature obscured all those present and I sat soaking in
the unique architecture, the soothing cool water and the fresh smell of the air.
The waterfall at the Double Decker root bridge
The double decker root bridge itself - yes you walk across
Akira too was taken in by the place but two decades younger and
with twenty tonnes more frenzy, she slipped into my thoughts. Happy having her
photographs taken, she wanted to ensure I had mine clicked too. While she took
some, she insisted Michael Star also took a few, just to be sure they were
worthy. Pictures taken from all vantages we had another cup of tea. There was
Maggi going around as well but neither one of us wanted it. Which place in
India can say that Maggi is unavailable?
As we were sipping on the cup of tea Akira spoke about the Blue
Lagoon which was another 30-40min of trek ahead. Apparently the waters were
clear blue, and she was quite keen to see it. I was not sure if I was up for it
but I was persuaded. And we embarked on another trek down another rabbit hole.
This one did not have steps through the tricky terrain but instead had wooden
ladders loosely tied at places. Michael Star showed us how to navigate these.
As if these were not enough, there was yet another iron bridge. But this time
there were only the three of us, so the swing was within limits.
As we descended the last ladder to the blue lagoon I was glad I
came. There was no other human being but the three of us in this lush pool
surrounded by rocks that were overseen by green trees. Clear blue skies smiled
from above, little butterflies flew across and the water danced to its own tune
as it waved over the rocks. This was truly serene and totally divine. I could
have stayed for longer had Michael Star not warned me that it was a climb up
that awaited us.
The last ladder at the Blue Lagoon
Michael Star at the Blue Lagoon
The way back was a test of pacing, stamina and will power. As we
got to the double decker bridge we took a break, hydrated again and this time
ate the local pineapple. They were just delicious; sweet, tangy and refreshing
all at once. A couple of pineapple slices, a few back stretches and throwing
the waste in a dust bin was all that was needed to start the ascent. Let’s just
say that after crossing the iron bridge it seemed that the swing was probably a
lullaby!
As we halted to rest every time I wondered how the villagers
living in the valley traversed this path the three times a week, every week. I
was wondering about this when I saw a local pass by. He put one foot on a step
and then the other on the same step before proceeding to the next. As he did
this he inhaled via his nose and exhaled via his mouth. I decided to deploy
this and viola, I could climb 3x as many steps without having to rest and even
when I did it was not because I was out of breath but to pace. Within three
hours and twenty minutes we had reached up. This was a total climb of 90+
floors and close to 12km taking about 20000 steps according to my app.
Once at the top my driver waited to greet me, more to see if I
made it myself or had to be carried. Seeing me walking and fit he was so elated
that he treated Akira and I to tea. Akira decided to grab a bite as well, but I
guess I was just delighted to have completed a spontaneous adventure. It
was a little over 6.5 hours but it was worth it!
The sun that shone in the valley was now calm as this was the playground
for the clouds. I wanted to start the journey back to the hotel and drive
through the clouds before darkness set in. (Sunrise is at about 4:45am and
sunset at about 5:45pm) The drive back, though with aching muscles was equally
beautiful. We even stopped at another point where I saw the clouds setting the
blanket over Cherrapunji for a tranquil, misty night. After yet some more
photographs we were finally on our way to the hotel.
A beautiful end to a wonderful day
As I entered the room I was elated. Spontaneous decision making
had brought about yes some adventure, some fun, a new acquaintance but most
importantly a soul satisfying day in the mountains.
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